Philipp Plein hotel, club and restaurant arrive in Milan – WWD

MILAN – Black Friday at Philipp Plein has a lot to offer.

On Friday, the brand unveiled its new and expansive headquarters in Milan and, to mark the occasion, unveiled bullish plans encompassing the launch of an ambitious Plein hospitality project in the city; the relaunch of the Plein Sport line; new licensing agreements and store openings around the world; major distribution plans in China and an overall improvement in the women’s clothing business to rebalance the brand’s offering, among other initiatives.

This was a lot to digest in a strategy to further develop the company, which plans to end the year with 200 million euros in turnover.

Many of the plans revealed still looked like a work in progress, starting with the showroom undergoing some final touches, including work on the expansive deck and a separate 1,076 square foot structure that will showcase the Plein Sport line.

“This space will be definitively ready by December 15,” assured Plein, founder and CEO of the Swiss-based luxury group and owner of the Billionaire label. Plein explained that on that date, the sportswear collection will be presented to buyers before being officially unveiled with a press presentation in January.

Launched in 2016, Plein Sport has been put on hold since, as the creator reports, the creator claimed that his success had cannibalized and interfered with the perception of the brand’s main line. As a result, the company closed half of the 30 stand-alone Plein Sport stores while the rest were converted to Philipp Plein stores.

“But we received a strong demand from the market, with also offers of license agreements to take over the Sport label. After internal discussions, we decided to do it ourselves, so we are bringing the line back, ”said the designer.

While the new Plein Sport collection was still a secret, the accessories for the main fall 2022 line were on full display in the showroom, as the company began its sales campaign this week, again welcoming most of its buyers for appointments. physical.

“Accessories in particular are a very important business for us, they represent 25-27% of our total revenue, and they keep growing,” Plein said, noting that shoes drive sales.

Shoes, handbags and baseball caps were featured alongside the inaugural efforts of the licensing agreements the brand has signed in recent months with De Rigo for eyewear and with WorldTime Watches & Jewelry for watches in the three-storey showroom, located in Via Burlamacchi, in the southern part of Milan.

Designed by the JSC studio founded by architect Jolanda Sbrana, the 16,146 square foot space was dominated by marble, mirrors, and glass surfaces while the walls and floors were painted here and there with graffiti. All these elements crossed different spaces, including the rooms of the flamboyant ready-to-wear for women and men; a corner dedicated to denim, and a small bistro restaurant with walls covered in greenery punctuated with a massive logo. A hall with parquet floor and independent entrance presented the billionaire’s offer.

Philipp Plein’s new showroom in Milan.
Courtesy of Philipp Plein

Previously a showroom for the Dirk Bikkembergs brand, the Philipp Plein group acquired real estate at the end of July, replacing its former outpost on Via dei Giardini in central Milan, which had closed last year.

By settling in the south of the city, the company reflects the migration of other fashion groups. As reported, earlier this year LVMH Italia signed a pre-lease agreement with real estate company Covivio for a 10-year lease on offices in the Symbiosis business district, located next to Fondazione Prada and 20 minutes walk to the new Plein outpost. .

But the German designer is not yet ready to leave the center of Milan. He signed an agreement to open a Hotel Plein in Via Manin, in the historic Palazzo Melzi d’Eril building which once housed the legendary headquarters of Krizia. Plein has signed an agreement with a new entertainment company that has leased the space and will operate the brand’s hospitality project under license. The location should include a hotel of approximately 18 rooms, Philipp’s Restaurant and Club, La Jungle de Plein bistro restaurant, The Skull bar and a private cinema for small screenings and accessible only to members.

To mark the start of the renovations, Plein hosted a “Black Christmas” themed party on Friday, which is expected to officially open to guests next year.

The historic Milanese building is expected to house the Plein hotel next year.

The historic Milanese building is expected to house the Plein hotel next year.
Courtesy of Philipp Plein

The designer said he would use the space to host his namesake brand’s runway show next February. Given Plein’s talent for throwing extravagant parties during Milan Fashion Week, the hospitality project will be designed to be flexible to host these events and change her look seasonally, depending on the themes of the shows.

However, there will be a continuous element, thanks to the brand’s new house line. The group has signed a new license with the luxury furniture company Eichholtz for the development of an in-house collection under the Philipp Plein banner. As part of the deal, which marks a return to the beginnings of Plein’s career in the design world, the first range of furniture will be unveiled during Milan Design Week in April 2022.

“I partnered with Eichholtz because he works with inventory – in an industry where you typically have to wait three months to receive a sofa you’ve ordered – and it’s very aggressive with its distribution expansion.” , said Plein, who also aims to open two stores dedicated to home collections next year, one in Miami and one in Russia.

Overall, the company is set to accelerate the expansion of its distribution network with more than 25 store openings slated for 2022. Among the most significant operations, the brand is in exclusive talks to take over the former Michael Kors flagship store in Old Bond Street in London. to replace its closed New Bond Street unit.

After moving its Chinese offices from Hong Kong to Shanghai, the group also intends to accelerate in this market where it sees significant growth potential. Philipp Plein currently has seven units between flagship stores and outlets in mainland China, but plans to have 16 doors operated directly in 2022.

This will boost local sales, which currently account for 5.4% of the brand’s total revenue, placing China after the United States – which accounts for 20% of total revenue – Russia, Italy, Germany and the United States. Spain. But Plein said he expects China to rank third by the end of 2022.

In total, the brand is available at 730 doors worldwide, including 40 own stores, 30 points of sale, 40 franchisees and a presence in 620 multi-brand retailers.

Thanks to the partnership with Italian manufacturer De Rigo, the brand’s eyewear supply is expected to reach 1,000 doors next year, with the United States expected to account for 24% of eyewear sales.

As for the watches, which WorldTime Watches & Jewelry develops and manufactures in collaboration with specialist Timex Group, the pieces will be available in 1,500 doors worldwide by 2022. Additionally, Plein said it will launch a jewelry collection in a foreseeable future.

Other licenses include the five-year agreement signed with Altana Group for children’s clothing collections earlier this year. In 2019, the brand also entered the beauty arena with two fragrances developed under Philipp Plein Parfums, a separate Geneva-based company under the aegis of the Holding Brands Beyond Beauty, which sold 1,000 pieces in one week on the brand’s online store.

A style from the Philipp Plein spring 2022 eyewear collection by De Rigo.

A style from the Philipp Plein spring 2022 eyewear collection by De Rigo.
Courtesy of De Rigo

The e-commerce platform continues to be a key driver for the company, which was among the first fashion players to accept cryptocurrency as a form of payment. Online sales of the Philipp Plein brand have increased by 16% compared to last year, with an average basket of around 800 euros. This month alone, the brand recorded 11 million euros in online sales, with orders coming mainly from the United States, Russia, Germany and Italy and, in terms of categories, the sneakers. for men and down jackets are listed as the most wanted items.

“Today, men’s clothing accounts for 65% of our total sales, whereas in the beginning it represented 10%. We are now looking to relaunch women’s clothing to rebalance the supply and improve its performance, with the goal that this part represents 40% of our revenue next year, ”said Plein.

To this end, the brand works on the communication front, relying on key personalities as the faces of the brand. Already at the head of the video that showcased the Philipp Plein spring 2022 collection earlier this year, Megan Fox will appear in the eyewear campaign photographed by Steven Klein which begins rolling out on December 1.

Also next week, the company will be filming the campaign for its pre-fall 2022 collection and has brought in model Eva Herzigova.

Philipp Plein's new showroom in Milan.

Philipp Plein’s new showroom in Milan.
Courtesy of Philipp Plein

Physical stores will reflect this commitment by enhancing the womenswear assortment with a new interior concept that debuts next month. Philipp Plein moved its flagship store to Barcelona, ​​now located next to the city’s Mandarin Oriental hotel. The unit will open next month with a new design in line with the Milan showroom plan and with a different color palette compared to the men’s and women’s offerings.

The new concept will also be replicated in the Milan store, which will temporarily close for renovations next summer and relaunch just in time for fashion week in September 2022.

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