Gucci unveils adidas collaboration during Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Outside Milan’s luxury fashion shows on Friday, two Ukrainian students held up signs reading “No World War III” and “No Putin” to draw attention to the war in their home country and urge the West to take tougher measures.

Their goal: to take photos of influencers and VIPs to remind the world of the horrors taking place in Europe.

“For now, it’s just sanctions and no action,” said Yulia Sayko, 24, a medical student in Milan whose family lives near Lvov, near the Polish border. In particular, she wants Italy and other recalcitrant countries to close Russia’s access to the SWIFT international payment system.

Tori Ptaha, a 25-year-old international economics student, said she was very worried about her family in the capital, Kyiv. Then a VIP car started to leave the Versace show and the students and a companion ran to show their signs. “We have to get into the photos,” Ptaha said.

Details of the womenswear previews on the third day of the Milan Fashion Week shows on Friday:

GUCCI AND ADIDAS JOIN STRIPES

Alessandro Michele has long seen an affinity between Gucci stripes and adidas stripes – but every time he tried to experiment, alarm bells went off. So he made it official, with a true collaboration between Gucci and adidas taking center stage in the upcoming fall and winter preview.

Michele said the collaboration was “her longtime hidden desire.”

“Stripes and lines are incredible symbols,” Gucci’s creative director said backstage at the brand’s headquarters in Milan, where the luxury label has presented itself for the first time since the pandemic.

The collab included men’s suits in runway-worthy royal blue and purple tones with adidas stripes on the sleeves and pants and Gucci script under the sports brand’s trefoil.

The choices for her were multiple, ranging from a two-brand corset to an athletic-style dress, joggers made of cute patterned knits, paired with heels, not sneakers; or a stunning Victorian-inspired white dress with a full, fully ruffled skirt.

Headwear includes adidas logo swim caps and double-billed baseball caps allowing each brand to share prime real estate. The clover also appeared on large travel bags and as a print on trousers.

“It’s an experience that may seem easy for some, but it was extremely strong”, helps Michèle.

The showroom was fitted with mirrors, which the creative director said were meant to reflect the multiplicity of fashion, how a single garment can be many things depending on how it is worn, and even change as it ages, becomes more lived. the centerpiece of the larger collection, which he used to emphasize the interplay between the sexes, opening the show with a woman wearing an oversized crossover pantsuit.

Michele said the sense of gender fluidity, which caused a stir when he took over as creative director of Gucci seven years ago, came naturally to him. “I always walk between the sexes,” he said.

VIP guests included Rihanna, her boyfriend A$AP Rocky and Stan Smith, known for the namesake adidas tennis shoe.

THE CORSETTED WOMAN OF VERSACE

The corset gave shape to Donatella Versace’s latest collection, which featured looks for women in a wide range of sizes.

The bustier appears alone under suits, in satiny pastels, or incorporated into tight-fitting briefs, as a sort of breastplate on tight tops and even as a detail on a long leather jacket.

The silhouette ranged from baggy trousers, with professional stripes or checks contrasting with bra tops under open suit jackets; or Morticia-style slip-on elastic skirts in candy pink or acid green. The tweed was frayed, appearing as a corset-bound dress, or as jacket and miniskirt ensembles.

Versace said the looks were built on “contrast and tension – like a tight elastic band about to close with a buildup of energy.”

MISSONI’S COMFORT ZONE

Alberto Caliri’s second womenswear collection for Missoni was full of comfort pieces not always immediately associated with the brand, including oversized blankets and stuffed animals, alongside the knitwear that made it a luxury mainstay. .

“Missoni, for me, has always had this part of hugs, a sweetness,” Caliri said backstage. “When you need something a little more, because you feel vulnerable. That was the idea, to work on that in a stated way.”

The brand’s famous zig-zag was oversized in wide-leg pants, paired with a sweater vest with a lived-in feel; or as a transparent sweater, worn simply with jeans. The sex appeal that caused a stir with her debut collection was still there, in an open-fronted dress worn over soft terrycloth pants.

Eva Herzigova closed the show in a shimmering sheath in muted primary hues.

MISS SOHEE MAKES HER MILAN DEBUT

Korean designer Sohee Park unveiled her one-of-a-kind collection of hand-embroidered couture dresses at Dolce & Gabbana’s downtown resort, as part of the Milan-based brand’s support of young designers.

“I’ve always been drawn to embroidery and there are very important elements to my design,” Park said. The 16-piece collection, inspired by Korean folk art iconography, included a dress of beaded panels resembling peacock feathers, and an intricately hand-embroidered train with bunnies, butterflies and a myriad of flowers. .

Just two years out of design school, Park, 25, said her first two collections sold mostly to private clients, but retailers are increasingly interested in a demi-couture line.

“I’ve always loved the hand stitching, the beautiful finishes, the embroidery and the colors,” Park said. “It’s my identity as a designer and what I really love. With the support of Dolce&Gabbana, I really was able to have complete freedom to create something that is in my dreams.”

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