Best of Milan Fashion Week SS23 Men: Moschino, Versace, Prada and Fendi

Ciao, love! Indeed, after London comes Milan, and this season we’ve seen an abundance of high-end fashion during the city’s SS23 menswear week. From high normcore at Prada to maximalist exuberance at Versace, from goofy visual puns at JW Anderson to the rise of daring young talents like Magliano, this was a season in which Milanese menswear – which can sometimes go wrong predictable – felt particularly varied, with a sense of fresh creative energy palpable in the air. Here we give you the full truth about what happened in Italy’s most stylish city.

Emporio Armani SS23 Men's Fashion Show
Emporio Armani SS23 Men's Fashion Show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

Emporio Armani

One of the qualities that has most distinctly characterized the SS23 menswear collections we’ve seen so far is a sense of light optimism, an ease that feels like a counterpoint to the more peacock spirit we have. seen so much for SS22. That’s what characterized Emporio Armani, who delivered a collection that deftly oscillates between urban sophistication and holiday-ready carelessness. The sharpness of light wool blazers was balanced by flowing, wide-leg pants that floated with every step, while vertical slashes and playfully pulled collars brought a dose of hot-boy-summer sexiness into the mix. An artisanal sensibility inspired sky blue to navy jacquards and prints that had the free feel of a spontaneous brushstroke, as well as moments of crochet and weight sailor knitwear, all of which was offset by sporty tracksuits in contrasting tones. While the note the show ended on – a Caucasian model with long, matted dreadlocks, dancing across the floor to a reggae soundtrack – felt a little dated, it was otherwise an eminently contemporary spectacle for the summer to come.

Fendi

Holidays. It’s a theme you’ll likely hear a lot about in the SS23 season, with – as you’ve probably done if you’ve been to an airport lately – everyone seems to have caught the travel bug en masse. Of course, designers are no less touched than any of us, with the prospect of no longer having to dream of flying, but being able to, offering a slew of holiday wear to usher in this new era of free travel. That’s certainly the sentiment that permeated the menswear collection that Silvia Venturini Fendi presented today in a Milan so hot it looked like a tropical place in itself. “Approaching summer attire like a round-the-world ticket to vacation destinations near and far,” as the show notes, it was a body of work infused with a breezy joy of living. Boxy, long, peak lapel blazers in sand beige and Mediterranean blue were sported by shirtless boys wearing bucket hats and also wearing sleazy wool wide-leg pants and loose kaftan shirts decorated with floral needlepoint embroidery which brought a cheerful splash of kitsch. Head here for the full review.

Jordanluca SS23 Men's Fashion Show
Jordanluca SS23 Men's Fashion Show
Jordanluca SS23 Men's Fashion Show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

jordanluca

Self-sabotage is a basic human value, you might say. As we follow the path of life, those who most often put up obstacles are, well, ourselves. It’s from there that Jordan Bowden and Luca Marchetto took off this season with their decadent, decadent collection, titled “Sabotage.” Inspired by Freud’s notion of the ‘death drive’, the counter-intuitive impulse that drives us to make what many would say all the wrong choices, the London-based label explored why we’re all so compelled to screw things up. the air by ourselves. , like moths drawn to a flame. One thing the duo definitely didn’t mess up, however, is the clothes themselves. Tailoring and outerwear were proportionally boxy and expertly crafted, with gigantic horizontal slashes running from sleeve to sleeve, joined by shimmering metal zippers. Sometimes the pieces were styled with the zippers open, causing the sleeves to open at the biceps. Elsewhere, jeans have been brutally distressed and the brand’s signature trouser, a slightly gothic, bottom-heavy silhouette, dragged across the floor, all serving as visual numbers for the collection’s contemplative theme.

Versace

Let’s get one thing straight: Versace isn’t just a brand, it’s a whole lifestyle! It’s a fact that we quickly realize when attending one of the house’s shows, staged in the vast garden of the Milanese palace where she lives. While the usual coterie of press, buyers and co. turned out for what was his first menswear show in three years, the most notable attendees were die-hard fans who showed up in full force, decked head to toe in decadent silks printed with the cheeky prints inspired by Greco-Roman by Versace. Head here for the full review!

Magliano SS23 Men's Fashion Show
Magliano SS23 Men's Fashion Show
Magliano SS23 Men's Fashion Show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

Magliano

Transporting fashion to a crumbling building located next to a municipal dump on the outskirts of Milan at 10 a.m. is, admittedly, a risky choice, but it is one that Luchino Magliano, the namesake founder of one of the hottest young menswear brands in Milan, was ready to take. Fortunately, it paid off with its emotionally-rich presentation easily among the highlights of the week. Along a glass walkway set up in front of artfully assembled vintage benches and chairs, a uniquely diverse cast of models (particularly for notoriously institutional Milan) strolled and lingered in the decrepit space, like ghosts from its past. . The clothes they wore had a similar spectral feel to them – shirts were draped in satin and lined with gauze, or randomly wrapped, tied and belted; pants had a subtly billowing proportion and oversized suits fell over the shoulder. The earthy palette of looks contributed to the quiet melancholy that seemed to linger over this season’s offering, though it’s not entirely fair to say that it culminated in a sense of gloom. Instead, what was on display here was an assured display of emotional rawness, something that was felt in the collection’s raw edges, hearty textures, and garments like a heartbroken keepsake sweater and blue jeans with dirt stained knees. . Milan isn’t necessarily a city known for its emerging talent, but Magliano does a damn good job of proving why that should perhaps change.

Prada

In fashion, framing is everything – a change in the context in which you see a particular look or garment can dramatically affect how you perceive it. It was notable, then, that upon entering the Deposito de la Fondazione Prada for the house’s SS23 menswear show, guests were greeted by a vast room with white paper walls, accented by gingham curtains. red. Cleared of all distractions, it provided a clean, uncluttered space for the clothes to speak for themselves. Read the full review here.

Moschino SS23 men's show
Moschino SS23 men's show
Moschino SS23 men's show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

Moschino

On day two of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Jeremy Scott continued the fashion illustration revival we’ve seen a lot on the catwalks lately, in a presentation that paid homage to the life and work of artist and photographer Tony Viramontes. Best known for his bold and brilliant work in the early 80s, as well as his contribution to Ray Petri’s Buffalo style movement – a watershed moment in fashion history and a guiding factor in what shaped imagery of fashion today – sadly he is among the long list of designers lost too soon to the AIDS crisis of the late 80s, gone before they could enjoy the credit they were due. Jeremy’s Moschino menswear collection was therefore an attempt to gift Tony his flowers posthumously and present his work with fresh eyes. Drawing inspiration from the bold palettes of his work, the costumes were cast in a range of rainbow hues, with technicolor scribbles and shimmering embroidery of Tony’s artwork. This camp feeling was founded by the gritty punk side of leather baker caps, wrap skirts and calf-covered boots, which gave a well-rounded and overdue toast to an iconic artist.

JW Anderson SS23 Menswear Show
JW Anderson SS23 Menswear Show
JW Anderson SS23 Menswear Show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

JW Anderson

If there’s one thing to expect from a JW Anderson, it’s, you guessed it, the unexpected. As the undisputed king of high fashion madness – both at this eponymous brand and in his tenure at Loewe – Jonathan has cultivated a sense of fusing a keen sensibility for luxury ready-to-wear with an esotericism of left – a very little -everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach. This season, at the brand’s postponed show in Milan, the remit of Jonathan’s object-oriented approach extended to sweaters with built-in skateboards; striped sweaters draped over bicycle handlebar “collars” for lack of a better description; box-shaped t-shirts were pierced with open box top cuts and reattached with door hinges. While the punchline of these portable puns remained intentionally cryptic – “Why? a statement read, “only the viewer can tell, and maybe there’s no reason for it” — but they were bolstered by a significant apparel offering that made sense. An intriguing distressed intarsia sweater with distorted QR code patterns all over; sweaters and shoes with a “cheeky” self-portrait of Rembrandt, the old Dutch master; jersey trompe l’oeil dresses with ripped denim jeans appliquéd on the top half; and, in what are sure to be instant best-sellers, scintillating riffs on backpacks claimed by JW Anderson.

Giorgio Armani SS23 Men's Show
Giorgio Armani SS23 Men's Show
Giorgio Armani SS23 Men's Show

Images courtesy of gorunway.com

Giorgio Armani

Opening the final day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week was one of the city’s big stalwarts – Giorgio Armani. For his latest collection for the luxury menswear arm of his empire, he presented a collection that reveled in the house’s 90s signatures that archive-hungry Gen-Zers are now discovering again – a roomy fit and satin that conveys a more sensual masculinity than many Italian suits. Sleazy but structured silhouettes came in stony greiges and soft, Mediterranean sky blues, and worn with fine-knit jumpers in poppy geometric patterns, while zings of eccentricity colored royal purple jackets and silk shirts with delicate prints of trees and giant logos.

Follow iD on Instagram and TikTok for more from the SS23 menswear shows.

About Juana Jackson

Check Also

Amsterdam Airport Leads Europe’s Air Travel Chaos

Due to staffing shortages and general travel demands, there has been a bit of chaos …